WHEN GADGETS FAIL

 

It's great living in a technological society. The shooting world has been blessed with its share of techno-gadgets in recent years. Wind meters, laser rangefinders and sophisticated ballistic programs have taken the guess work out of most of our honed and practiced skills.

 

Now the neophyte can accurately judge range to the nearest yard and determine wind deflection to the fraction of an inch given a constant blow. Such luxuries were not available to the likes of Daniel Boone, Billy Dixon or Davy Crocket. They had perfected these learned skills from years of practice and experience. Billy Dixon shot thousands of rounds in the extermination of the American bison, this experience made him one with his rifle. He was quite proficient in judging distance, wind and knew the ballistic profile of his handcrafted load. The buffalo hunters were indeed some of the finest game shots in American history due to the nearly inexhaustible number of targets available during that era. They shot in wind, rain, sleet, snow, scorching heat and a host of other “Postal Conditions” that would confound today's shooter's.

 

As a Generation of techno-shooters, many of us have become dependant on such gadgets. The laser rangefinder being the most used crutch in our shooting bag. How many of you still reach for the LRF when the target is within point blank range? We've developed a phobia that unless we know the exact range to the target we might miss? Hmmm.... Daniel Boone would not be impressed!

 

Most importantly, what do we do when our laser flat-lines due to snow, rain, fog and or poor reflectivity? During these moments of techno-failure our language would be embarrassing if used in mixed company.

 

I posed this question to hundreds of shooters at the Safari Club International show in Reno, Nevada this year and a very high percentage of shooters did not have a suitable answer. Many thought they could buy competence in “Testosterone” based magnums and zero their rifle at 300- 400 yds in an attempt to overcome such embarrassing situations.

 

One hunter who was headed to Mongolia for Marco Polo sheep was told to zero his 300 Win. Mag. at 500 yards as shots tended to L O N G on these wary trophies. If they encountered game between 200 and 325 yds. the bullet would be 14-15 inches high at those ranges! If a trophy sheep is spotted at 275 yards, will our hunter remember to hold 15 inches below his desired point of impact? Having watched numerous hunters in the field, I'd be willing to bet there would be no back straps on the campfire that night?

 

A Remington 300 Ultra Mag, shooting a 180 bullet at 3250 fps. with a 400 yd zero will be 8.52 inches high at 225 yards. Very few shooters realize just how high the bullet will be at ranges between 150-300 yds. Don't make this mistake, there is a better solution and you've been staring at it for years.

 

Reticle Salvation

 

That's right, when the laser fails and conditions are such that you cannot accurately judge distance to target, use the reticle in your scope. With a little practice you'll find it is easy to do and far more accurate than Mark 1 eyeball. Military and law enforcement shooters have used the scopes reticle for decades to accurately determine range to a target of a given size. Hunters can also use the same technology to bring home the trophy under inclement conditions.

 

Most American and a few European scopes have the reticle installed in the Second Focal Plane, meaning the reticle remains a constant size and the image ( deer, elk, prairie dog ) increases or decreases as we turn the magnification up or down. Second Focal Plane scopes are usually calibrated on their highest magnification setting. It is important to note your calibrated setting.

 

In First Focal Plane scopes, the reticle and target size increase or decrease proportionally with magnification changes allowing the shooter to range and shoot on ANY magnification setting. First focal plane technology is primarily a European scope feature, however a few of the American scope companies are noting the importance of being able to range and shoot on any magnification. Savvy shooters are welcoming the change. Lets take a look at how the average shooter can use his “Duplex” reticle to range a target.

 

As an example; lets range an 18" mule deer. Take your target backer and set it at 100 yds. Using a felt marker, draw a 6" tall letter “I” on the target backer. From a solid rest, turn the power selector ring on your scope so the heavy post of the “duplex” and the horizontal crosswire bracket the “I” from top to bottom. Note the “magnification setting” on your scope that allows you to subtend 6 inches at 100 yds. We have now converted an angular unit of measure “Inch of Angle” to something that we can use.

 

On this magnification setting we can now determine the range to our target. We know that our “Duplex” subtends 6 inches at 100 yards and because we are working with an “Angular Unit of Measure”, the subtension at 200 yds. is 12 inches, at 300 yds. 18 inches and at 400 yds. 24 inches. Our mule deer measures 18 inches from the top of the back to the brisket, if we bracket our deer using the duplex we can be pretty certain that he is very close to 300 yards away and hold accordingly for the shot.

 

Our deer is properly bracketed using the duplex reticle with a subtension of 18 inches at 300 yards.

 

Amore sophisticated and accurate method of range finding involves the use of Mil-radian and Minute of Angle units of measure. These again are Angular Units of Measure like “Inches of Angle” that start from the shooter and go to infinity. The Mil-radian scale has been used by the military for over a century to call artillery. A circle is divided into 6400 equal parts, one milradian is 1/6400 of a circle. In laymen terms this equates to 3.6 inches per 100 yards, 7.2 inches at 200 yards and 36 inches at 1000 yards. Using the “Minute of Angle” scale, a circle is divided into 21,600 equal parts. A circle contains 360 degrees and each degree contains 60 minutes of angle. A minute of angle is a finer angular unit of measure than a mil-radian and is the most popular method of angular correction when shooting long range. One minute of angle will subtend 1.047 inches per 100 yards, 2.094 inches at 200 yards and 10.47 inches at 1000 yards.

 

Since we know the angular subtension at a given distance, we need to know the target size we are trying to range. It becomes a simple mathematical formula to determine the range once we know the target size we are shooting at. The use of the mil-radian scale has prompted a nifty tool called the Mil-dot Master that allows the shooter to accurately gauge the distance to the target by the use of a modified slide rule. The formula for using the Mil scale is as follows: Target size; width/height in inches multiplied by 27.78, divided by the number of mils the target subtends. Example: 18 inch mule deer. 18 x 27.78 = 500.04 divided by the number of mils our target subtends ( in this example 1.5 mils) 500.04 divided by 1.5 = 333.36 yards.

New data card software can also plot the mil scale subtension allowing the shooter to have a handy pocket card with this valuable information.

Using the MOA scale we can also determine the distance to the target. Suppose we ‘ve lost our mil-data cards and or our calculator vapor locked. Simply divide the number of “Minutes” the target subtends into the target size to determine range to the target. Example: 18 inch mule deer, bracketing our buck from the top of the back to the brisket he measures 6 MOA. Divide 18 by 6 and we get 3, our deer is 300 yards away. If he brackets 4.5 minutes of angle, 18 divided by 4.5 equals 4, he is 400 yards away. In this case we are actually using the “ Inch of Angle “ scale and not worrying about the extra .047 of an inch in True Minute of Angle. The extra .047 amounts to a 4.6% difference in range ( at 400 yards this amounts to 18 yards) one can easily round the 4.6% to 5 % and add this to our range if so desired. This system is fast, accurate and we can do the math in our head.

This is a basic lesson in using the reticle to determine range to the target should your laser range finder fail in the field. Often times Mother Nature intervenes on the side of the animals and renders our laser technology useless. If we are versatile and adaptable in our shooting we can remain at the top of the food chain. Successful hunters always have a back-up plan. Do you?

 

Advanced Reticle Technology offers both of these range finding systems in their unique reticle design. Most importantly they offer precise aiming points in Minutes of Angle eliminating the need to dial elevation when shooting long range. This reticle design is currently available in Leupold and Schmidt & Bender rifle scopes. In the next few months we will also have this reticle in the NEW Nightforce 5.5x22 series of rifle scopes with first focal plane technology.

 

For more information on long range rifle scopes contact

Holland's at 406-348-2051 or see our web page at: www.hollandguns.com

 

Be sure and ask for your FREE ballistic profile and DVD. The first 50 callers will receive our Mil- Value Index Card showing mil-values from .5 mils to 5.0 mils in 1/8th mil graduations for 8 different target sizes.

This is a must have card for anyone ranging in Mils.

 

Thank you for purchasing the PERFECT scope mount for your rifle. This mount allows you to optically center the reticle for both windage and elevation, allowing maximum travel left and right, up and down. All bases are machined from a near perfect Remington receiver and feature a 20 MOA forward slope for your convenience. Scopes perform best when the reticle is optically centered.

 

FIGURE 1                                           FIGURE 2

STEP #1

 

Begin by attaching the bases to the receiver, do not use Loctite at this point. We are simply checking the receiver bridge heights to ensure perfect alignment. With bases attached, set a straight edge on top and see that they are in the same plane. If they are, proceed to Step # 2. SEE FIGURE 1

 

If not, we want to surface the bases for our individual receiver. This allows for stress free mounting of our scope. The bases are machined at a 20 MOA* slope as received. Set your sine bar, or our Special Receiver Fixture with the proper shim*. 10 MOA = .014 20 MOA =.029* 25 MOA = .036 and 30 MOA = .043. Take a .005 cut from the rear base and machine the front base with this setting. This should bring both bases into PERFECT alignment (plane) with one another. SEE FIGURE 2

 

STEP #2

 

Attach the Picatinny rail to the bases with the screws provided, you will use one 10-32 flat head cap screw and the 10-32 button head screw. Attach your rings to the rail and space the rings to the widest width for your particular scope. * Note: keep the rings at least 1/8 inch from the eye piece, objective bell and or turret head. Using a power lap or hand lap, lap the ring halves with valve lapping compound. Wash and clean the ring halves and attach them to the rail. SEE FIGURE 3 Level the rifle and base in the vise and hang a plumb bob from the ceiling across the room. Set the scope in the ring halves and snug the ring caps after aligning the reticle to the string line. Insert your collimator into the bore and align with the scope reticle. Remove the windage/elevation caps. Turn the windage dial (left or right) until the reticle stops moving in the collimator. Count the number of clicks or MOA as we turn the windage knob in the opposite direction. Take the number of clicks or MOA and divide by 2. Example: We had 40 minutes of angle from left to right. Turn the windage knob back 20 MOA or 80 clicks ( if the scope is calibrated in .250 MOA click values). This centers the windage adjustment in the erector tube. Do the same with the elevation adjustment. The reticle is now centered in the erector tube.

 

STEP #3

 

With the reticle centered in our scope, remove the scope from the rail. Snug the 10-32 pivot screw on the rear base as well as the 10-32 button head screw on the front base. Attach the scope and look at the collimator/reticle alignment. Shift or tap the base left or right to align with the collimator for windage. Tighten the button head screw.

 

FIGURE 3                          FIGURE 4

Using the transfer punch supplied with the scope mount, lightly center punch the location of the front locking screw in the front base. SEE FIGURE 4 Remove the front base from the receiver and place in the mill vise. Locate the center punch mark and center drill, complete drilling with a #22 drill and tap with a 10-32 tap. SEE FIGURE 5 Clean bases and refinish if necessary. Clean 6-48 tapped holes in the receiver with Acetone. Clean 6-48 base screws (4). Use a BLUE or PURPLE grade of Loctite, never Red and apply a small drop to each of the base screws. Attach the bases to the receiver and tighten the 6-48 screws. The rear 10-32 pivot screw and 10-32 button head screw are the correct length. The locking screw is longer and may require shortening if it contacts the barrel upon tightening. With all the screws confirmed to be the correct length, clean with Acetone and apply a drop of Loctite to each screw. Install Picatinny rail on bases and tighten screws with 1/8" Allen wrench provided. Install scope and rings, be sure to push the recoil lug on the rings to the forward abutment on the rail and tighten the ring nuts to 50-60 INCH pounds. You are now ready to head to the range and zero the rifle

 

FIGURE 5

 

 

Another method used by some gunsmiths is to attach bases following Step # 1. Mount the rail tight to the bases and zero the rifle (100-200 yds. your choice) at the range. Return to the shop and insert the collimator noting the reticles location to the collimator. Remove the scope and center the reticle for both windage and elevation. Mount the scope and note the location relative to the ZERO'ed setting on the collimator. Machine the base for elevation if needed and adjust the base left or right for windage. Transfer punch the locking screw hole, drill and tap for 10-32 locking screw and reassemble. Attention Gunsmiths: Buy 10 Perfect Picatinny Rail Mounts and receive our custom machining sine bar for Remington 700 short and long action receivers FREE ( A $200.00 value). Makes installing a snap and provides your customer with an absolutely PERFECT job each and every time. Perfect for all scopes, but especially nice for European scopes with limited adjustments.

Shims for sine bar. Allows gunsmiths to machine forward taper into the mount. 

 

For more information and or Technical support call Holland's at 406-348-2051 / 24 Hr.  Check out our website for rifle building supplies, parts, stocks, scopes, recoil pads, we are Remington 700 specialists www.hollandguns.com

 

With Holland's Perfect Picatinny Rail Mount you'll never again fight scope mounting problems!

 

We are the solution to all your scope mounting needs.

By Darrell Holland

 

Our high tech society has evolved in many ways and hunters have had their share of advancements. High protein food plots for maximum horn production, sophisticated camouflage, alluring scent products, and last but not least, great leaps in rifles, cartridges and scopes for the long range hunter.

 

Protein sources, scents and camouflage are no brainers, they contain no ethical or responsibility clauses in their use. Rifles and the apparent license in their use should come with a disclaimer or better yet, a booklet on long range ballistics.

 

As a custom gunsmith and long range shooting instructor I hear stories from scores of hunters shooting at big game animals at EXTREME ranges under horrific conditions and scoring one shot kills. There are numerous companies promoting extreme range hunting and intrepid hunters are eager to join the fraternity and receive their Merit Badge. While there are a few extremely capable individuals promoting such shooting/hunting ethics, we must keep in mind the ability and knowledge of the hunters we are enticing.

 

Having run a long range shooting school for a number of years, we see a pretty good cross section of hunters come and go. Many with years of shooting and hunting experience but lacking in the understanding of applied ballistics and hazardous environmental conditions that they face when going afield. Its fun and exciting to “ring steel” at 600-1000 on a windless day at 70° from prone or bench rest conditions and another to do so at 20° in 12 inches of snow with a 3-5 mph breeze blowing left to right and shooting over your pack.

 

Over the years we've had some great shots attend our schools, military snipers, police marksmen, competitive shooters and some damn good country boys who grew up with a rifle in their hands. Our range facilities allow us to shoot under real world conditions. Shooters tackle switching winds as well as angular conditions complimented by irregular and broken ground. These are tough conditions to shoot in and make consistent hits at 500-600-700 yards, not to mention doing so at 875-900 and 1000 yds.

 

Many folks have not a clue as to what the bullet is doing at 875 yds v/s 900 yds. At 900 yds a mere 2 mph change in the wind between you and the target can change bullet impact 10 inches. How many of these genetic links to Carlos Hathcock understand the effects of barometric pressure, temperature, elevation and humidity on their bullets flight? I can assure you not many! Is it ethical then to be shooting beyond our knowledge base? Does the cost of the hunt, or the last day of the hunt give you license to shoot beyond your capabilities? If you muttered a feeble “YES” to the above questions you'd better sharpen your pencil and take good notes.

 

In an attempt to educate those hunters who walk the razors edge, lets go hunting and explore the pitfalls in an average mule deer hunt at long range.

 

Our test hunter is shooting a 300 Winchester Magnum with a 180 grain Nosler Accu-bond at 3000 fps. chronographed at 70 degrees. He is using 72.5 grains of R/L #22 with a Remington 9 1/2M primer. He zero's the rifle at 200 yds and using Sierra's Infinity 5.1 ballistics program plots the trajectory of his rifle to 1000 yds for his Colorado hunt. Confident that he has done everything right he double checks the numbers; B/P 29.0, altitude 4500', temperature 20 degrees, humidity 20%. Yep, she looks good as he tapes the data sheet to the rifles stock. He'll be hunting the wind swept prairies of eastern Colorado.

 

It snowed 12 inches the week before and a warming spell created a crust on the snow making walking difficult and noisy. An hour from camp our hunter spies a great buck in the distance, our hunter crouches low in the sage and walks to the side of a small hill gaining a slight elevation advantage and better shooting position for the shot. It's 17 ° outside as he struggles with numb hands to free his range finder from his coat pocket. Shivering from the cold and the excitement of seeing a world class buck, he zaps the laser rangefinder and it fails.

 

His warm breath condenses on the eye piece and freezes, twice more it flat-lines and finally on the fourth attempt he gets a reading. The bold red numbers read 775 YARDS, he's confident he can make the shot, he's seen it done on TV many times. He recalls the success stories of fellow hunters at the gun club who have taken game at greater distances. He checks his data chart and dials the correction. At 775 yards the bullet will drop 123 inches, the hill is protecting the hunter from the 3-5 mph breeze that is blowing, the 12 inches of snow has covered the bunch grass and the stiff sage brush offers no indication as to wind velocity or direction. Focusing on the deer, our hunter does his best to provide the perfect trigger squeeze under the frigid temperatures.

 

Lets examine a few of the environmental hazards involved in the above shot.

 

1) Never rely on a single reading from the laser rangefinder when it has flat-lined several times before. We MUST get consistent readings to confirm an Accurate range to the target. The error factor is too great to risk the shot of a lifetime. A mere 25 yard change in the distance to the deer can result in an 11 inch point of impact change.

 

2) Our shooter has loaded his ammunition with R/L #22, not the best powder choice when it comes to temperature sensitivity. With a 53 degree change in temperature from his chronograph testing at 70° he may well experience a 100 fps loss in velocity or MORE. With a 100 fps loss in velocity the bullet will drop an additional 9.75 inches.

 

3) The unnoticed left to right breeze of just 3-5 mph will cause a 14-15 inch deflection in our bullets flight. Keep in mind it is very difficult to accurately gauge the wind beyond the shooter especially over broken/irregular ground with hills and timber. A full value 10 mph wind will deflect the bullet 38.44 inches under the above conditions.

 

4) Add in a little flinch, imperfect trigger squeeze, or the rifle shifts under recoil from the less than perfect shooting position over the pack and who knows where the bullet may strike?

 

The chances of our hunter connecting with the buck are pretty slim in my opinion. Wouldn't you agree? Let's stretch the barrel a bit more and make the mythical 1000 yard shot under the same conditions.

 

At 3000 fps bullet drop is 249.84 inches, at 2900 fps ( remember the 100 fps loss from our temperature change) drop is 269.87 inches, a 20 inch difference! Wind drift in a full value 3-5 mph wind is 26-27 inches, provided we have a consistent wind ALL THE WAY TO THE TARGET. Miss the target distance by 25 yards, add 18 plus inches to the drop.

 

These are point of impact changes with just a 100 fps change in velocity and a 3-5 mph breeze. Experience a 11/2 point change in barometric pressure and drop at a 1000 yds. increases to 279 inches. Hmmm, are we starting to see the severity of changing and unpredictable conditions at long range? Cogitate on a 600 yd. uphill 20 degree shot, with a 7:30-1:30 quartering wind at 10 mph. Does bullet lift come to mind? If so, how much?

 

Ask competitive long range shooters how often they hit the X-ring with the first shot in competition? Not very often, should be the reply! Keep in mind they are shooting at an EXACT 600-800 and1000 yds with wind flags from a very stable position with very little adrenaline/excitement flowing in their veins.

 

To reasonable shooting distances, at ranges up to 600 yards, a temperature/muzzle velocity change is the most important factor to be considered. Slight changes in elevation, humidity, and barometric pressure have very little effect on the bullets flight to 600 yds with magnum velocities. With consistent and determined practice one can become quite proficient on game animals to 600 yds. Beyond that, it takes tremendous skill and experience combined with a little luck to make consistent hits at 800-900 and 1000 yds.

 

If you doubt this, take 12 inch squares of cardboard and attach them to a wooden stake, have your hunting partner place them at different yardages (600-1000yds) and different angles to the shooter. Range and calculate the MOA correction for drop and drift and fire away. It should be a humbling experience? This 12x12 inch square represents the kill zone of a deer or antelope.

 

This simple test will allow you to assess your proficiency and determine your range limitation. Set aside your ego and be honest with your capabilities, if you can consistently keep ALL of your shots in the 12x12 inch square at 600 yds, but hit 2 out of 5 at 700 yards, your range limitation under ideal conditions should be 600 yds. On the other hand, if 450 yards is the extreme range at which you can keep all your shots on the target, stand tall, you are ahead of 95 percent of the shooters out there given the same test. As true sportsmen we need a moral compass to guide us in our long range shooting pursuits, this test can help us obtain that virtue.

 

Chronograph your ammunition at different temperatures. 100 degrees for summer antelope, 70 degrees for normal conditions and put several cartridges in the freezer overnight and keep them on ice with a thermometer at 20-30 degrees. Note and record the muzzle velocities with these temperature changes. Create data cards for each muzzle velocity.

 

The best powders for extreme temperature changes are the Hogdon series of EXTREME powders. They include the following H-4895 Varget H-4350 H-4831 H-1000 Retumbo- Benchmark and H50BMG. These powders will provide the most consistent velocities in a wide range of temperatures. It is the responsibility of the serious hunter/shooter to check his or her ammunition for velocity changes when gunning at long range.

 

Above all practice!!! One can never get enough practice, do so under realistic outdoor conditions and be honest with your evaluation. Competence comes with perfect practice, no one packages or bottles it! Keep good records of your shooting, note temperature, wind, barometric pressure, humidity and the MOA correction needed to make a center hit under the above conditions. You will see some interesting comparisons when reviewing these notes.

 

Don't be a fair weather shooter! We see a majority of shooters who, when the wind is up, or it is raining, simply punch the alarm, roll over and catch a few more ZZZ's. Hmmm, they are missing a golden opportunity to see the effects of rain, temperature, humidity and B/P on their shot. Do we stay in the tent when it is raining or snowing? When the weather conspires against you, don your foul weather gear and get some experience, it can make the difference between success and failure in the future.

 

Wounding an animal is a heavy burden to carry and rightfully so. Know your limitations and never allow someone to push you beyond your comfort zone... Surgical one shot kills are what we are after. The “just get a bullet in em” should be removed from our vocabulary! If in doubt, stalk and get closer, there is no shame in a 450 yard shot.

 

Only 463 yards in an 8 to 10 mph wind, but a great buck with memories that will last a lifetime. Rifle 308 Winchester, 150 grain Ballistic Tip at 2900 fps did the job.

 

Until next time, shoot straight and be safe in the great outdoors.

Respectfully

 

Darrell Holland

 By Darrell Holland

 

Campfire stories abound during hunting season regarding hold-over, wind drift and elevation changes affecting the bullets flight. Very few Ballistician's attend these informal chat sessions and most of the information shared is flawed. Most hunters are of the “fire for effect” club and rarely take the time to educated themselves on ballistic information.

 

Classes are not offered at the local community college, gun clubs seldom host individuals qualified to talk on the subject. What is the hunter who is thirsty for knowledge to do?

 

The simple solution is to purchase a ballistic program for your PC. They are simple to use and can provide the hunter/shooter with a wealth of accurate information based on Scientific Fact rather than bar stool experience. The student will have a better understanding of gravity, wind deflection, elevation changes, point blank zero's, MOA correction, time of flight and more!

 

Most importantly it can be done in the privacy of his home without tuition fee's and surprise exams. Problems solved and myths debunked are just a few key strokes away. For less than a $100.00 he can have a personal tutor and create his or her own data cards to perfection.

 

The buck that “Big Al” killed last year at 600 yds with a top of the back hold and a 100 yard zero is now classified as BS. The wind drift at 400 yards in a 15 mph wind can be calculated exactly and the hold-off compensated for precisely. With the simple addition of a couple of programs he has taken the guess work out of his shooting and can be looked upon by his peers as an encyclopedia of ballistic knowledge. No matter how you look at it, it's a win win situation! Knowledge does have it's benefits...

 

Sierra Infinity 5.1 and 6.0 are some of the best and easiest to use ballistic programs on the market. Installation is a snap, and with 30 minutes of practice you are navigating smoothly thru the program. Range, velocity, energy foot pounds, drop, drift, time of flight are all at your finger tips. What's the best range to zero your rifle at? Simple enough, adjust the zero and see. What effect will a 10,000 foot change in elevation have on my Colorado hunt? Punch in the numbers and you'll know exactly.

 

Another great program that is compatible with Sierra Infinity, is Holland's Ultimate Data Card Software. This software program works with both versions 5.1 and 6.0 and allows the user to create

The Ultimate Data Card. I'm a hard copy kinda guy, data cards don't require batteries, they are quicker than PDA's and easier to carry. This data card provides the following information to the shooter.

Starting with the far left column, we have Mil-radian subtension, great info. when the laser rangefinder fails and we must use the scopes reticle to determine range to the target, they are graduated to the nearest 1/100th mil. The next column is actual range in yards, followed by Drop in MOA and Drift in MOA. Now for the exciting part. The next four columns are uphill/downhill angles ( your choice of any 4 angles) auto-calculated based on time of flight and gravity of YOUR specific round. These corrections are based in corrected MOA. That's right, no mental gymnastics, read and shoot to the numbers, it's that easy! All card formats are for ANY zero you desire and are in 25 yard increments from 25-1000 yards. You can print the card in 3 different sizes according to your needs and vision requirements. No other data card software provides you with the versatility and accuracy of our system. The shooter has all the information he or she needs at their fingertips in one handy laminated card.

With hunting season just around the corner, take the time to educate yourself and be a more knowledgeable hunter this fall. Gain the respect of your peers as you out shoot them on windy days at distant targets. You'll never regret your investment in ballistic knowledge...

 

Until next time....

Respectfully,

 

Darrell Holland