What does Darrell carry in his pack?

1. My Lightning Strike Fire Starter. Without a doubt, the most important item to carry. It keeps me warm in an emergency, can be used to make a signal fire or cook the day's kill if necessary. I add extra tinder (my new NAPALM Tinder). More about this item
2. Knife and flashlight. Who hunts without a knife, Vegans? I dine on protein, so I carry a knife. I carry two knives in face: my hunting knife and a Swiss Army “Camper” model. I like the MINI Army tech flashlight which uses “AA” batteries and is quite bright, waterproof and long lasting. I carry two extra “AA” batteries.
3. Shelter Tarp. I carry a rip-stop nylon tarp that I can use to make a shelter in tough conditions. Grommets all around allow great tie-downs.
4. MINI Hatchet and SILKY Saw. These two items can be used to make a small house/shelter, gather large amounts of fire wood and quarter up large animals, if need be. If I plan on spending the night, I take my pruning shears, I can use these to cut cedar/fir boughs to make a comfortable bed in a hurry. They are much faster than any other tool in my pack.
5. Aluminum tent stakes (6) and 20 Penny Nails (4). Can be used to build a shelter, hang items, etc. Handy but not absolute.
6. LARGE heavy-duty plastic garbage bags. I carry the HEFTY brand large plastic bags/ they can be used to protect meat, serve as quickie rain gear, or can be used to keep warm if you can't get a fire going.
7. Small Zip-Lock bags. I carry two 1-gallon bags and four HD/freezer quart bags. Buy Zip-Lock brand not cheap junk.
8. Para-Cord. I carry a lot of para-cord and use different colors for specific applications. Carry at least 50 feet of cord. I carry 3 different colors totaling around 125 feet.
9. Tin cup. (actually stainless steel) used to cook in, gather water, or beg for alms.
10. Small First Aid Kit containing the following: Band-Aids, Neosporin, Benadryl, Tylenol and alcohol wipes. One Quick-Clot bandage, which I hope I never need to use.
11. Field dressing kit. Latex gloves, handi-wipes, paper towels.
12. Wool stocking cap, compass, water bottle, Rhino radio/GPS, and ResQ-Link beacon. Hopefully I never have to use either.
13. Ammo Tote allowing me to carry and extra 20 rounds of ammunition. Going afield with just the ammo in your gun is a BAD IDEA!!! This item in our store
14. Some optional items to consider. Small marine flare for signaling in the event of rescue. Drinking straw water filter. These are essential items if you are using this pack as a bug-out bag! An addition would be a 12×12 inch square of Reynolds Aluminum foil. Use the thick heavy duty material, use it to signal in an emergency and also as a fire pit when necessary.

Our recent Africa hunt gave us the opportunity to test a variety of bullets and monitor killing effectiveness, penetration and weight retention. Everyone shot reasonable cartridges, there were no Testosterone fueled MAGNUMS. Todd shot his 260 Rem. 140 NABs, Gene and Jacob shot 308s with 168 SMKs and 165 NBTs, Cliff shot a 6.5 SAUM with the New Hornady 143 ELD-X bullet, Xavier shot a 284 with 168 Bergers, Jonathan and I shot a 6.5 Creedmoor with the Hornady 140 gr. MATCH bullet.

We shot a total of 123 animals. Springbuck, warthogs, impala, hartebeest, blesbuck, wildebeest, kudu and eland. So there was quite a variety of animals to test on. Ranges varied from 25 yards to 585 yards.

All bullets killed animals as would be expected and shot placement continues to play an important role in ones success. Having said that, some bullets did perform better than others and here are the results.

6.5 140 gr. Nosler Accu-bond. 22 animals killed, excellent penetration, even on eland and kudu. Very few bullets recovered as most were complete pass-thru's with good exit wounds. 5-Star rating.

168 Sierra Matchking. Contrary to Sierra's claim that this is a MATCH bullet, not a game bullet, it still kills quite well. Penetration seems sufficient, although there were few exits on the larger animals, internal organ damage was superb. Animals were shot to 400 yds with this bullet. 4-Star rating.

Gene Kelly with a nice blesbuck, Gene and Jacob shot Sierra's and Nosler BTs.

165 Nosler Ballistic Tip. A great killer on all accounts with over 20 animals killed. Numerous pass-thru's on springbuck, warthogs, blesbuck and kudu. Bullets recovered still retained lead core and jacket. 4 Star rating.

Gene and Jacob with a nice wildebeest. This dynamic-duo used 308s and shot over 40 animals. No magnums required here! Great father and son time in the field

143 Hornady ELD-X. Cliff shot a lot of animals with this bullet and the results were sporadic. It did kill well with many DRT's, however when bullets were recovered the lead core always separated from the jacket. Internal damage was good, yet there were few pass-thru's even on medium sized animals. This bullet has an EXCELLENT BC, (.62) which is important and if Hornady can find a better way to bond the core, this bullet will give the Nosler Accu-bond a run for its money! As many of you know, I'm quite a fan of EXIT wounds in the event you lose sight of the animal.

Being able to follow a blood trail is VERY important and failure to find “blood” often leads to a lost animal if one's tracking skills are marginal. 3.8 – 4.0 Star rating.

Cliff Neuse with a blue wildebeest. Cliff used a hot-rod 6.5 SAUM and 143 gr. Hornady ELD-X bullets loaded by Copper Creek ammunition. Cliff likes to travel in “FAST” company and this rifle/cartridge performed quite well!

168 Berger. Xavier shot this bullet in his 284 and smoked lots of animals. His shots were often less than 200 yds and most all of his animals were one-shot kills. At close distance the ability to place the bullet exactly where you want it is often quite easy. Xavier is a good shot and his PH was quite pleased with his performance. Berger bullets seldom exit, again posing a problem if you lose sight of the animal.

Xavier with a nice eland. Below are a pair of nice warthogs! Xavier used a tri-pod and a Hog Saddle to make several of his shots. His 284 and Berger bullets proved quite deadly…

140 Hornady ELD MATCH. I'm a big fan of the 6.5 Creedmoor and wanted to use this bullet to see how well it worked in a hunting environment. Accuracy was exceptional and it did kill well when I did my part. I tried to “stretch” the barrel a bit on several animals to see the results. We killed numerous springbuck between 300 and 585 yds. I hit the 585 one a bit low and he require additional shots at 480 yds.
Jonathan killed several in the 435-475 yard range with complete pass-thru's. On larger animals, warthogs, blesbucks, kudu and eland, pass-thru's were few and far between. Internal damage was good, however, many of the bullets found had separated from the jacket and failed to penetrate even to the far side of the animal.

Jonathan with a nice impala. Jonathan shot quite well during the hunt, maybe good genetics has something to do with it…

I shot a large waterbuck (600 plus lbs) at 505 yds thru the heart, he required a second shot at 550 that put him on the ground. My eland was an excellent heart-lung shot at 425 yds and required two additional shots, one at 450 and 475 yds. No pass-thru's. While this is considered a match bullet, its make-up is very similar to the 143 gr. hunting bullet but it shoots much better, at least in my rifle. I think the jacket separation is the problem with these bullets as one cannot tell the difference between the two (140s and 143s) when the jackets are found, both designs separate.

My waterbuck shot thru the heart at 505 yds. I put a second-round in him at 550 yds. It might not have been necessary, but why take a chance on packing an animal any farther than you have to.

While my shots were farther on the average than the rest of the crew, in testing I will give this bullet a 3.75 Star rating. I hoping that Hornady will respond with some more R&D to take these bullets to the NEXT level. With its high BC and excellent accuracy, the only thing missing is a better bonded core to offer better penetration.

Students Todd Fisher, Xavier Carillo, Gene and Jacob Kelly, Cliff Neuse and Jonathan Holland joined us on this world class hunt. We hunted in the Orange Free State with my longtime friend and PH Hein Funk.

2016 Alumni Team.
Back row L-R Todd, Gene, Jacob, Cliff, Jonathan, Hein, Darrell, Rosita, Ann and Xavier

Once zero's were confirmed we divide up in pairs and headed into the Savanna. The region is very arid with rolling hills and plenty of rock outcroppings. Mornings were cool, with temps in the mid-high 30s, warming in the afternoon to 65-70 degrees.
The area we hunted encompasses roughly 90,000 acres and it was refreshing to never see another hunter during the day. Each pair of hunters had their own region to hunt and daily walks were 6-11 miles a day.

Typical terrain we hunted in. Large vistas, rolling hills and plenty of rocks.
Perfect spot and stalk opportunities.

Todd Fisher made the comment one night that a trip like this offered the “new hunter” a chance to gain decades worth of hunt experience (if he/she hunted in the States and had to draw tags) in the 10 days we were there. If you bought the 10 day, 24 animal package, there was never a day that you did not see at least 50-100 animals of different species and have the opportunity to shoot at least 2 animals per day. This amounts to a lot of stalking practice, paying close attention to the wind, walking quiet and other field craft skills. How many North American hunts offer such opportunities and experience?
Evenings were spent telling hunting stories and dining on superb meals prepared by Hein's wife Marietjie.

Breakfast was served at 6:30 AM and most hunters hit the road by 7:00 and did not return until dark. Lunch was served in the field. All hunts were spot and stalk, there was no shooting from a vehicle.

Gourmet meals for dinner every night, Weight gain anyone?

In our formative years while perched atop our parents or grandparents lap, we listened to the story of Hansel and Gretel and how they attempted to find their way home via the bread crumb trail. We've all used a similar method to find our way back to camp or where we parked in that mega parking lot late at night. Finding the car or our way back to camp can take minutes to hours and unless complicated by failing light or wild animals the adventure can be rather uneventful. Time being the only boring factor to contend with. There is however another bread crumb trail, one that is not told in Fairy Tales and is often kept secret from our peers. It however can be as important, if not more so, than finding our car or our way back to camp. It all depends on how we are hard wired and how serious we take our sport. The long range shooter who has never experienced a full rotational error, either hasn't shot much, or is telling a “big windy”. When this calamity strikes, shooter's go through all sorts of contortions to correct this grievous error. Usually a trip to the range or an impromptu 100 yard target is set up and half a box of shells later, the rifle's zero is confirmed. A sigh of relief is uttered usually accented with a few adult adjectives and a vow to never missdial again. We've all been there if we are honest with ourselves. I know a few of you have pushed your chair away from the monitor and shouted “Not Me”!!!! Why, I count those little hash marks on the turret and “Never “ lose my way. While good in theory, it doesn't seem to work 100 % of the time! Your viewing angle of the turret, the thread pitch and or number of minutes of angle per revolution can distort our view. Let's listen in on a familiar conversation: Virgil, she looks sorta like three and a half hash marks to me, are you sure it its 4 tick marks? Well now, wait just a minute, if I scrunch my head down real close to the stock I can get four hash marks, but I gotta really bury my face down hard on the comb? Sound familiar??? You be it does, I've heard about every version of the above scenario while teaching students at our long range shooting school. Yeah but those are newbies, anybody worth his salt can tell three and a half hash marks from four. Okay, would you be willing to shoot an egg off your child's head at 100 yards after I twisted and turned your windage and elevation knobs multiple revolutions? Didn't think so!!!! Here however is a method that is fool proof and in William Tell fashion, provides you with the confidence to make the shot each and every time, allowing your gene pool to continue. Once the rifle is “ZEROED” and the windage/elevation knobs slipped to “0”, simply turn both dials “clockwise” counting the revolutions and minutes until they bottom out. Using a label marker or metal marking pen, write that number on the top of the knob. See accompanying photo. Do the same with the windage knob.

By applying an adhesive sticker or using a metal marking pen (I prefer yellow or white) to our windage elevation knob, as shown in the photo, we can always find our way home. The elevation knob requires 3 revolutions and 2 minutes of angle to find my initial zero. The windage knob requires 2 revolutions and 8 minutes to zero. This simple method allows the shooter to find his or her way home should they get lost in a sea of dialing

Using the above method you will NEVER encounter a full revolution error. Anytime you are in doubt, simply turn the dial “clockwise” until it stops and reverse the revolutions/minutes to your initial zero. This bread crumb trail is easy to remember and fool proof, even at night. Simply remember the total number of minutes and multiply by four if you are using .250 clicks. Feel the click and start counting…. By applying an adhesive sticker or using a metal marking pen (I prefer yellow or white) to our windage elevation knob, as shown in the photo, we can always find our way home. The elevation knob requires 3 revolutions and 2 minutes of angle to find my initial zero. The windage knob requires 2 revolutions and 8 minutes to zero. This simple method allows the shooter to find his or her way home should they get lost in a sea of dialing. Home alone and lonely? Grab the rifle ( a man's second best friend) turn out the lights, bottom things out and count those clicks., When you've reached the “magic number” turn on the lights and check your progress? Gain confidence and say good-bye to being lost at the dials!

Until next time, remember: Knowledge is Power!

Most respectfully.

Darrell Holland Holland's Shooters Supply

Loop-Hole Louie

For many hunters the time allotted for hunting is just too short. With busy work schedules and domestic duties at the home front, we find ourselves severely short changed in pursuit of our favorite hobby, Hunting!

For each of us, the dreadful circumstances are as different and unique as the individuals involved. A common denominator however does occur, one that we can all associate with. In our youth many of us were irresponsible, foot loose and fancy free, may be a better adjective to describe our carefree lifestyle however. I can remember one year hunting for 30 continuous days and never having to answer to anyone! These “Testosterone based Marathons” hold fond memories, sleeping in the truck, eating cold sandwiches for days on end. These character building years make for great stories around the campfire. These stories become yardsticks by which we judge other hunters.

Then hormones changed. My pursuits and stalking abilities were focused on another kind of dear. As in most relationships everything is hunky-dory for the first few years, then Reality sets in. Jobs, mortgages, 401 K's, summerhouses, and one, possibly two tax deductions arrive on the scene. Let's face it, our lives have changed. In most cases a 7-10 year cycle takes place before we begin to reflect on our loss of freedom. Some may refer to this as a second childhood, most however, prefer to describe it as making the most out of the years we have left. I firmly believe we are only given so many hunting seasons and should make every effort to maximize time in the field.

For those of us that married “wisely” this lusting of our miss-spent youth is tolerated by our better half. They often shake their head in what we take for a nod of approval and off we go into the wild blue yonder. Many wives possess the uncanny ability to sense our outdoor calling and grant us the necessary time to decompress before we self-destruct in our fast paced society.

How many of us have a friend or acquaintance that is not so fortunate? He is put on a short leash and has more restrictions imposed on him than a UN peace treaty. We secretly pity these poor souls wherever they may reside, and offer our condolences for their lot in life. True friends however, never leave friends twisting in the wind. A True Friend comes to the aid of his fellow hunter wherever he may be, for deep down, we all fear the karmic recourse of failing to aid and assist our comrade in arms.

What better way to spring a friend from the chains that bind him than a Perfect Hunting Excuse!

We've all used them; in fact, they came in pretty handy at different times in our lives. Remember in the fourth grade when the dog ate our homework? Or the 7^th grade, when our report card got left in our pants pocket and failed to survive the wash? Usually the older and more mature we become, the more sophisticated and elaborate the excuses. It's now time to activate our “Creative Juices” and gain a few extra days in the field. Lets pull out the stops as we explore the Machiavellian world of 10 Perfect Excuses for More Hunting Time.

In most cases just a few “extra days” in the field are all that is necessary to bring home success. Much like the gambler who has an addiction, just a few more dollars is all that is needed to take home the “Big One”. Unlike the gambler, we know for a fact the above to be true. With the advent of the cell phone we can call from remote hunting areas (and not waste time driving into town to make the same call) as well as, use the “You're breaking up, I can barely hear you routine, when things get sticky. Hunters worldwide owe a debt of gratitude to the inventor of the cell phone.

Excuse # 1 Road washed out!

This excuse works well in virtually every part of the country, more so in rugged or mountainous terrain. The conversation sounds something like this: Hey honey, it's me. Can you hear me? You are not going to believe what I just witnessed. I was driving out of this steep canyon when the road ahead of me slid down to the creek. If I had been 100 yards further ahead I may have been killed; my heart is still racing from the experience! I talked to the Forest Ranger and he assures me the road crew will have the road fixed in two to three days? The back way out? Yes, I asked about that, the Ranger said it was 90 miles over extremely rough 4 wheel drive roads. I doubt if our 2-wheel drive truck would make it? Assure her you'll be fine spending the night in the truck. This excuse will easily grant you 2-3 additional days of hunting, as well as laying the groundwork for a new 4x4 truck that comes next hunting season.

Excuse # 2 Broken down vehicle.

This excuse requires a little malice of forethought. While traveling to your hunting destination call home and complain about the truck not running quite right? Assure the little woman that is probably the fuel and not to worry. In order to gain the maximum amount of days from this excuse plan on being home on Saturday. Call late Friday night and explain that a fellow hunter has towed you into town and the mechanic claim the “ electronic spark advance modulator” has failed. It will be Monday before he can order a new one and by all likelihood you'll be home by the end of the week. The good news, the mechanic remembers receiving a recall flyer for this particular problem and the parts are supplied free from the factory. There is a modest installation charge however. She'll be relieved you are safe and the electronic spark advance modulator won't overdraw the checking account. Good for 4-5 days of additional hunting.

Excuse # 3 Missing hunter.

Every year hunters get lost in the woods. This year is no exception!

Once you've found the bedding grounds for the “Old Mossy Horned Buck” you'll need an extra few days to plot his demise. Here's how to gain those badly needed couple of days.

Call home and explain to her that a young hunter has been reported missing and you've been asked by Search & Rescue to stay a few extra days to help in the search for the missing boy. The terrain is very rough and they need all the able bodied men they can find. This will appeal to her maternal instincts and cement her vision of you as a hero. Warning! Do not use this excuse if you are out of shape and cannot see your feet when you are standing. She won't buy the able-bodied man routine!

Excuse #4 Sick hunting partner.

Again a little forethought is in order. Call home on the second day of the hunt and describe the wonderful hunting partner you've met at the service station while getting gas. He's invited you to hunt with him on some private ground his uncle owns. Assure her he's not a serial killer out on parole (no, his name is not Corona or Berkowitz) and you'll be fine in his company. Towards the end of your “allotted time” call home and tell her your hunting partner has fallen extremely ill (possible food poisoning, or better yet giardia) and you'll need a few extra days to make sure he is well and fit enough to travel home. This is an easy 2-day excuse.

Excuse # 5 TSA road block

The Travel Security Administration is an easy excuse. Those burley, bullet head shaped authoritarians can ruin anyone's return trip. Tell the “Misses” you've been detained at a roadblock and because you have firearms and ammunition in your possession, you are being detained for further questioning. Sound agitated, (who wouldn't be) at your dilemma and fake the cell phone being taken away by a TSA ogre. Hey, Hey... Give me back my phone you brute, then hang up. You've gotta love modern technology! Add 1-2 days to your hunt.

Excuse # 6 Injured yourself.

This is an excuse many of you have had lots of practice with. Remember when you called the boss and in a hoarse, anemic voice, whispered how sick you were and you'd be in as soon as the fever subsided? Only to revive as soon as the phone hung up? Grabbing the golf bag and heading out to the green did indeed make you feel better...

Same routine here. Call home and in a voice reminiscent of a death bed confession, tell her of your harrowing escape from death, when the trail you were walking on gave way and you plummeted several hundred feet down the hillside. Keep it simple, tell her you need to take more Tylenol and you'll be home as soon as the swelling subsides. Throw in a few groans for good measure. Good for at least 2 additional hunt days.

Excuse # 7 Kidnapped by Environmentalists.

Use this excuse if she reads the Enquirer, or has an infatuation with Area 51 and Alien Abductions.

Sound hurried on the phone and describe how you've kidnapped by environmental extremists and you are certain you can escape in 2-3 days. Warn her against calling the police as this may agitate your captors and decrease your chances of escape. Tell her you love her and hang up...

Excuse # 8 Freak snow storm...

We've all experienced freak storms in our lifetime. Hunters are no exception and with Global Warming on the rise who knows what to expect? Drop a few hints prior to leaving the homestead, that bad weather has been predicted in your hunt area. At the appropriate time call and comment on the “whiteout” conditions you are experiencing and the road crews are unable to plow the roads for several days. Never fail to tell her how cold you are and the new sleeping bag you purchased from Cabelas is a lifesaver. Create sound effects by using short blowing and whistling sounds to imitate a severe storm in progress. Use the old standby; You're breaking up I can barely hear you between the wind and storm sound effects.

Excuse # 9 Wounded the Big One.....

Everyone likes a success story. In an excited voice call home and describe the monster bull elk you've shot and wounded. As an ethical hunter you'll need to take up the trial in the morning and find the animal before the wolves do. She'll easily grant you the additional time necessary to chase down your quarry and bring home the bacon. Don't forget to describe the terrible tracking conditions and rough terrain your are encountering (over windfall and brush so thick you are actually crawling on your hands and knees) You are certain that you'll find him, he is hit pretty hard, but it may take a few days to pack him out once he's found. Tell her you need to go as its getting dark and you need to make camp for the night. If you succeed in harvesting an animal with the “extra leave you been granted”, don't forget to shoot it twice. A crafty hunter must pay attention to details!

Excuse # 10 Blocked road.

If you are from the big city, you'll appreciate this one. Hey hon, you won't believe what has happened. This California hunter with a horse trailer has it jack-knifed in the road, the trailer is hanging over the cliff and the horses are freaking out! There is no way you can get around him; he has the whole road blocked. He is walking out to the highway and plans on hitchhiking into town. Hopefully he can find a tow truck to come out and pull him back on the road. He has asked me to stay with the horses and try to keep them calm. This excuse will pull on her equestrian heartstrings and she'll sympathize with the terrible conditions you are forced to witness. Guaranteed to garner you at least 1-2 days.

Well, there you have it, 10 excuses to grant you more time in the field. Don't abuse them and don't use the same excuse twice in a row, she'll get wise to you and your hunting days will be over. Most importantly, burn this article after reading it, if it falls into the wrong hands you'll need to take up a new hobby.

Until next time.....

Loophole Louie

Rifle cant is a common problem for many shooters, especially those you have a “Natural” cant when holding the rifle. More than not the rifle scope is mounted by eye, once the proper eye relief is found. “She looks pretty good to me” and screws are tightened. The more sophisticated types purchase the” level level” gadgets and attempt to level the ejection port and top of the scope turret. While good in theory , it is not always a precise way to mount your scope guaranteeing your scope reticle is perpendicular to the bore. Years ago I developed a unique fixture to “SOLVE” those pesky scope mounting issues. Numerous customers watched me mounting their scope using this fixure and encouraged me to offer it to the public. This fixture is very simple to use and a perfect job can be had even by the mechanically challenged. Forget about fumbling with the vise twisting and torqueing the rifle to level the scope base. We've all been through that frustrating procedure. Mount the rifle in the fixture and tighten the clamp, set the magnetic level on the base and make sure it is 90 degrees to the base. Use the adjustment screw to bring the base into “EXACT” level, remove the level and attach the scope rings. Note: You can lap scope rings prior to this step. Be sure and clean all abrasive material from the rings, hot soapy water works best with water soluble lapping compound.

With the rifle held securely in the fixture, one simply turns the adjustment screw (upper right hand corner) until the scope base is absolutely level. We are now ready to mount our rings and align our scope reticle with the plumb bob we have hung across the room. Tighten ring caps uniformly

Hang the plumb bob across the room ( supplied with the fixture) and set the rifle scope in the ring saddles. Attach the ring caps and loosely snug the screws to gently hold the scope in place. Rotate the scope until the reticle aligns itself with the plumb bob. Tighten the screws. Now is a good time to add a scope level ensuring reticle perpendicularity in the field. While the rifle is still in the fixture insert the collimator and align the grid with the reticle. View the grid thru the scope and dial 30 minutes of elevation making sure the reticle is tracking parallel to the collimator. If everything is working correctly you may remove the rifle from the fixture. Don't trust your scope mounting to the kid behind the counter at Wal-mart. This fixture will pay for itself in no time at all. For more information contact Holland's Shooter Supply at 406-348-2051.

Holland's Scope Mounting fixture complete with all the bells and whistles. Magnetic level, plumb bob, grip cloth, nylon spacer block and forend shim. Everything you need to do a perfect job for yourself and friends.

Being self-sufficient in simple gunsmithing techniques can save you money and time.

Until next time,

Respectfully,

Darrell Holland Holland's Shooter Supply

Darrell Holland

The engine of the Super Cub sputtered at bit as the pilot leaned the fuel mixture in preparation for a smooth landing on Indian Head lake in Northern Alberta. The leaves had started to blush with color and a heavy frost was still visible in the shaded meadows surrounding the lake. The beavers had been working overtime, as numerous dams and ponds were present on the southern end of the lake.

Josh Williams, age 50, was hardly a newcomer to fly-in hunts, yet he braced his feet against the floor and tightened his jaw as his guide and pilot Pat Murphy touched the float plane down within 100 yards of the shore line. Revving the prop, Pat turned the plane 90 degrees, and eased the Cub into shallower water alongside the makeshift dock.

This would be Josh's third trip to Alberta in search of a trophy mule deer. The 10-day hunt should allow enough time to locate, stalk and harvest a trophy animal. Previous trips had been unsuccessful; good deer were spotted, but a shot was out of the question. Josh had hoped to end his streak of bad luck and score on a nice buck. The two quickly unloaded the plane and prepared to settle in for the night.

If weather reports we accurate, they could look forward to cold temperatures and a possible snow flurry the following week. Pat knew the area quite well because he flew numerous fishermen into the lake during the spring. During these trips he had spotted what appeared to be several nice bucks in the next drainage to the east. He felt confident that he could get Josh within shooting distance, since the terrain offered great stalking opportunities. The rock outcroppings and quaky patches were ideal habitat for mule deer, especially big bucks.

The familiar incessant buzzing of the alarm brought both men out of a deep sleep. Josh shifted in his sleeping bag and started to reflect on the hunt. Doubts and regret crept into his mind. It had been a hard eight days of hiking, glassing and scouring thousands of acres in search of a trophy buck. Had he been foolish passing on a nice 28 inch buck the day before? The buck had a good spread, but the mass was not there. He had not come to Alberta a third time to shoot a second rate buck. Today would be the ninth day of hunting; maybe today his luck would change. He pushed the tent flap aside and was greeted by 4 inches of new snow. For once the weather report had bee accurate.

With lunches packed and a thermos of hot coffee between them, the two me headed for a series of rocky outcroppings where they had seen deer earlier in the week. With the change in the weather, Pat had hoped the deer would be out feeding at first light. The extreme cold and powdery snow made for quiet walking. The two hunters removed their daypacks and settled in for a few hours of glassing from the rim.

“They must be bedded down tight”, Pat commented. “Must be”, Josh replied. “Where could they be hiding”, he asked? Pat suggested they wait for the sun to break over the mountain and warm things up. “Maybe that will get the deer moving? If not, we'll hunt that patch of dark timber to our left”.

Suddenly a slight reflection caught Josh's attention. He glassed that same patch of timber minutes earlier and did not remember seeing anything. He checked the focus on his binoculars and stared intently into the black timber. The sun's rays were penetrating the deep shadows as he caught movement. The movement soon materialized into a huge buck with deep forks and tremendous mass. Josh was looking at the buck of a lifetime.

“Pat, I've got one and he's a dandy”, whispered Josh. “Look just to the left of the big windfall in that dark patch of timber. He's on the right hand side”. Don't waste any time Josh; nail him before he gets away, he thought. The 10 and ½ pound rifle felt as light as a feather as Josh adjusted his pack for a rest. He'd been glassing for almost an hour, but his heart was pounding harder now than it had been after the steep climb to the rim. He was having a hard time keeping the reticle steady on the bedded buck. Snowflakes were landing on the eyepiece lens, Josh raised his head and tried blowing them away, but his hot breath fogged the lens. “Damn it”, he whispered. Pat turned to see Josh trying to wipe away the fog with his glove. He knew from experience that he needed to calm his client. “Be cool”, he whispered. “Take your time, don't blow it now....”.

By now the buck had honed in on the hunters' location. With ears forward and muscles tensed, a split second was all that was required to make his escape. Josh finally cleared a dime size area in the lens from which to see. Exhaling and steadying for the shot, he focused the cross hairs just behind the buck's shoulder. “Squeeze the trigger; squeeze the trigger” he said to himself. Josh had learned this lesson the hard way years ago when he flinched on a big bull in the Selway. He was determined not to make that mistake again.

A Boone and Crocket buck was a mere 200 yards away. In a heartbeat it would be over and the trophy buck he longed for would be his. He felt the trigger break, but a slight hesitation and an “audible click” interrupted the customary rifles report.

The adult adjectives flowed freely and a fumbled cycling of the bolt prevented a second round from being chambered before the buck sprang from his bed and vanished in the timber.

Sound familiar? You bet it does! Every year hundreds of hunters take to the field unprepared for the task at hand. Having spent hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars on a dream hunt, only to have it end in failure. Are you going to be the next member to join this growing fraternity?

In over 30 years of hunting around the world, I've been quite fortunate to have never experienced a rifle failure. I've had modest scope failures (fogging) but it didn't result in a missed or wounded animal.

Can a hunter have 30 years of good luck? Or is there a method; a way of eliminating mechanical failures when we go afield in pursuit of big game?

Let's take a look at what foiled our unlucky hunter. The slight hesitation and “audible click” was a failure to fire, resulting from none other than poor rifle maintenance. No doubt, a sticky or gummed up firing pin and spring being responsible for our trophy buck living another day.

Firing Pin Assemblies

These simple mechanisms can cause a majority of our problems. Firing pin protrusion should be a minimum of .050 to a maximum .065 protrusion from the bolt face. The pin tip should be hemispherical in shape. The firing pin body and spring should be free of grease and oil. Eliminate the WD-40 and 3in1 oil from your cleaning supplies. These two magnets for dust and dirt have been responsible for countless failures in the field. In their stead, try a dry film lubricant. I prefer a dry molybdenum disulfide spray. It will never become sticky or gum up under harsh conditions.

Trigger Mechanisms

Many do-it-yourselfers spray oils and magic love potions into their trigger groups in a feeble attempt to reduce those horrendous factory trigger pulls and to offer some resistance to rust. Keep in mind rusty trigger parts (sears and triggers) are few and far between. These parts are usually machined from high carbon or tool steels and heat-treated to a Rockwell of 60 plus on the “C” scale. Due to this hardness, rust is not really a concern warranting oiling of the trigger mechanism. Often times the sear and trigger are plated or hard chromed to slicken sear surfaces. This plating also inhibits corrosion.

Under NO circumstances should one attempt to oil or grease the trigger for improved performance. Oils and greases simply attract dirt and dust and over time will ultimately result in a mechanical failure that seems directly proportionate to the size and quality of the horned trophy hunted.

The Remington 700 and Browning “A-Bolt type triggers are what we call enclosed trigger mechanisms. If not maintained, they account for many mechanical failures in the field. The Model 98 and Winchester Model 70, on the other hand, are what we refer to as an exposed trigger group. The Mauser design has been field tested under the worst possible conditions; wind, rain, sleet, snow and freezing Eastern Front conditions have little effect on this proven design. While these triggers may not be as light and crisp as the 700 series of triggers, they are less prone to problems if you are slack in your maintenance regimen.

Cleaning and Maintenance

With the advent of stainless steel rifles and hypnotic Madison Avenue advertising, we have brainwashed the “Stainless Generation” into believing that a maintenance free rifle has finally arrived, liberating them from the tiresome cleaning chores of the past. Nothing could be further from the truth! Every rifle, regardless of its metallurgical make-up needs to be given a little TLC from time to time. This involves removing the barreled action from the stock, cleaning the barrel, and lubing the cocking cam and locking lugs. The entire above-mentioned details can be accomplished by anyone who can screw a nut on a bolt. Believe it or not, barrel cleaning is quite a detailed procedure and we will save it for a future article. Let's remain focused on the action, bolt and trigger for now.

Virtually every small hamlet or village has an auto parts house or Wal-Mart close by. These outlets can easily provide the specialized products required to keep your “Shootin' Iron” in good working condition. An aerosol can of Carburetor Choke cleaner will remove the gum and sludge that can accumulate in the trigger and firing pin assemblies. The combination of toluene and acetone quickly dissolves the most stubborn build-up of 3-in-1 oil; WD-40 and dust, rendering the aforementioned parts squeaky clean. Use this product to clean your trigger group at least once a year.

Our next item to purchase is a can of dry molybdenum disulfide spray. This dry film lubricant is great for the firing pin assembly and acts as a corrosion preventative as well. It is best applied to a clean surface. I like to warm the parts to be coated using a hair drier until they are warm to the touch. I then spray a uniform coating over the pin assembly and inside the bolt body. A can or M/D spray should last the average hunter/shooter several years.

Cocking Cams and Locking Lugs

These are two of the most overlooked areas for maintenance with most shooters. These are the only two areas that we apply a generous amount of grease and anti-seize compound without fear of causing a mechanical failure.

The locking seats in the receiver and the locking lugs should mate well in a good rifle. We've all heard of lapping the lugs for better contact. When we increase the contact area between the lugs and the locking seats in the receiver, we need an anti-seize compound to prevent galling. This galling occurs when the two surfaces are dry and under pressure, either from tight headspace or firing pin spring tension on the bolt. A thin film of anti-seize compound on the backside of the locking lugs prevents this galling from occurring. Grease does not work as well and should not be used as a substitute, unless it's an emergency.

Cocking cams require sticky high-pressure grease to keep them in working order. Again, galling occurs when these surfaces are dry and excessive spring pressure/tension is present in the cocking stroke on our bolt action rifle. It is a good idea to have the cocking cam and cocking piece polished as well (smoother surfaces work better) These modifications, along with a little cam grease, will eliminate galling and hard cocking. I've seen galling so severe that the shooter was bending the bolt handle trying to cock the rifle. Holland's Shooter Supply offers a nice kit containing cam grease and anti-seize compound. These round sealed tins will last the hunter for years and fit nicely in your cleaning box.

Action Screws and Scope Mounts

We often hear complaints of loose action screws and wobbly scope mounts. Really? Being aware of your rifles scope mounts and action screws seems elementary to some, but every year we hear tales of woe as to how a loose scope mount cost the hunter a buck of a lifetime! Get into the habit of checking the rifle prior to going to the range for zero confirmation. This simple check can save a lot of grief as well as ammunition.

Action screws should be torqued uniformly. On pillar bedded rifles 50-55 inch pounds is best. On aluminum bedding blocks as seen in Remington, Winchester and Weatherby rifles, 60-65 inch pounds is best. Always tighten the front and rear screws the same. On 3-screw guns like the Winchester Model 70 and Ruger 77's, tighten the front and rear screws the same and just snug the middle screw. Over tightening the middle screw can affect the bedding and accuracy of the rifle. Make sure the action screws, when properly tightened, do not interfere with the closing of the bolt. If you feel a slight hesitation, or if the bolt fails to close, it is an indicator that the front guard screw is protruding into the locking recess, which will prevent the bolt from closing completely. This can be disastrous to accuracy. Filing or grinding the screw shorter will remedy the problem.

Getting a Perfect Zero

Confirming our rifles zero should go without saying, yet countless hunters go afield with the confidence that their rifle is dead on without actually confirming their zero. How many of you have heard the following: “Hells Bells, why I sighted the rifle in last season and never fired a shot. Its gotta be zeroed. Besides, these new shells are expensive and I've only a half box left!” Sounds like a caption to a Far Side cartoon. I can't wait to hear the stories at the end of the season.

Without exception, you should confirm your zero prior to hunting. Should you stumble or fall, check your zero. What are the odds of the maid fessing up to the rifle clattering to the floor when she is cleaning the closet? It doesn't take much of a bump to move our point of impact several inches at 100 yds. On a recent trip to Africa, I confirmed zero twice in as many days and was damn glad on the second time, since the rifle's point of impact had indeed changed. Failure to do so would have resulted in a 6-inch error at 200 yds. Knowing that you have confirmed a perfect zero gives you confidence in your rifle. Failure to do so can result in a long march back to camp.

Each and every time we remove the barreled action from the stock we should check the rifles zero. Anytime we tamper with scope mounts or screws, confirm zero. Slip, stumble or fall with the rifle, confirm zero.

In closing, I'd like to leave you with a final thought. Know your limitations! If you are not comfortable with shots over 400 yards, stalk and get closer. It is better to pass on a difficult or iffy shot; wounding or losing an animal is a poor way to end the season.

Until next time...

Respectfully,

Darrell Holland

Tony Cavallo with a nice antelope buck. Range 674 Yards – 6mm XC 107 Grain Sierra Matchking at 2950 fps. The F_ _ _ _ _ word did not apply to Tony! The Cure, Give Me The Cure The cure is much easier said than done. First of all, you need to raise your hand and admit that you do indeed flinch. You can do this in a dark room or closet if it helps. The admission much like being an “excessive social drinker” (alcoholic) is your first step. Hi, I'm Joe and I flinch... Second, break-out a small caliber rifle from the gun cabinet and practice dry firing 50-100 rounds a day over the next two weeks. Some of you may even want to use an accurate 22 rimfire, don't laugh, I've seen shooters flinch when using a rimfire! The destination is all that matters, not how we got there. Note* be sure the cross hairs remain on the target after the trigger breaks. Practice a smooth and almost subconscious trigger squeeze while FOCUSING intently on the target. Take the rifle to the range and from the bench shoot four, 5shot groups, focusing intently on the target, just like your dry fire practice. The thought process should go something like this; aim, touch the trigger and say; I'm in control of when the rifle fires. Maintain pressure on the trigger and repeat the same “Mantra”. Do this several times while in your “natural respiratory pause” prior to shooting. YOU are indeed who will decide when the rifle will fire. When the brain tries to intervene, stop and start the process over. If the 8 pound rifle is calling your Bluff, get up from the bench take a few deep breaths, puff up your chest and have another try. We are looking for “Control over the Rifle” you are the “ALPHA Male” you can do this! We must lock-out the thought process that the noise and recoil are going to hurt us. We've been conditioned (brainwashed) for years that its going to hurt and be very loud when we pull/yank the trigger. This has become a programmed response in our shooting. DO IT QUICK and get it over with is no longer in our vocabulary. Our aiming focus should be so intense as to burn a hole in the target, nothing else should intervene. If it does, start over again! We are now subconsciously compressing the trigger while intensely focusing on the target and before we realize it the gun has fired! Whew!!! We did it, the gun fired as if on its own and the bullet hit the 10 ring. That wasn't bad was it? Now, do it over again for the remaining 19 shots, being honest with yourself as to when and who decided when the gun fired? Was it you, or did the brain sneak in and take control? Don't cheat, there is nothing to be gained by cheating. When you can shoot 20 rounds without a hitch from the bench, its time to shoot prone from your pack or bi-pod. Past experience has told us how well the rifle shoots from the bench, now it is up to us to do the same from the prone position. Use the same focus and aiming intensity as you did from the bench, nothing changes. Do a few dry runs for practice, did the cross hairs jump off target when the trigger broke? Hmm?? Was the brain involved, were you in control of the rifle? Be honest, progress cannot be made if we are cheating. When we can shoot to the same degree of accuracy prone, as from the bench, we have made some serious progress in overcoming our affliction. We can now move up in caliber, ( if we drew the coveted dinosaur tag in South Dakota) but do so gradually, the brain is going to be harder to fool, it remembers the noise and recoil from the Remington Ultra Mag. We may not be able to do two things at once, but the brain does have a memory as to what happened the last time we shot the RUM. That Weatherby eye tattoo will be hard to forget. Dry fire and practice holding the trigger squeeze with a loaded round in the chamber, building control over WHO is going to decide WHEN the gun fires. Fire two to three rounds and go back to shooting your lighter recoiling rifle. DO NOT burn 20 rounds thru the big cannon and ruin the progress we've made over the past few weeks. A gradual build-up is required to overcome the increased recoil and cranial intervention. It will take weeks to overcome a bad flinch enabling you to shoot to your rifle's potential. Be patient, be honest and don't get in a hurry. Don't blow your progress by shooting your friends new wonder magnum, watch him and remind him that the recoil appears to be mild. ( tisk tisk) You've spent a lot of money and time training yourself to overcome the flinch, do not let peer pressure set you back. Cowboy up and maintain your discipline! Precision shooting is a perishable skill, continue your dry fire practice sessions and range shooting of 20 rounds per outing. Perfect practice is far more important than vast numbers of rounds expended down range. Continued shooting beyond your control count will only result in the BRAIN getting in the way and destroying your progress. Its like being “B slapped” in the face, you may take the first one without blinking, but guaranteed after the 10th you be anticipating the pain and noise and both eyes are going to slam shut before being hit. Any takers? Shooting is a personal sport and we judge our success based on our peers. Its nice to be on top and have the best score of the day, staying there takes lots of practice and acknowledging your short comings. You may not want to admit to your friends that you flinch, and that's fine. But when you look in the mirror or go to sleep at night you know you have a problem, seek the solutions listed above. Your only other option is a frontal lobotomy and we can discuss that in a future article.

Until then, be safe and In Control.

Respectfully,

Darrell Holland

Montana Buck – 463 Yards – Rifle 308 Winchester 168 Grain Sierra Matchking Problem: I'll often get erratic shots when shooting from field positions. The shot goes left/right or high/low for no explained reason? When I shoot from the bench, I seldom if ever experience this? Cure: Your shooting/body position is the problem. Its doubtful that a “field gremlin” has taken refuge in your rifle, remove the bolt and do a visual check to confirm. More importantly, note the butt position on your shoulder, is it in the pocket? Do you have a firm grip on the rifle? Are you pulling the rifle straight back into the shoulder pocket, or is there lateral pressure as well? Is the trigger finger compressing the trigger straight back into the shoulder pocket? Is the rear swivel stud hanging up on your field bag? Is the rifle tracking properly during recoil? Is your breathing cycle consistent? Field positions can be tough given terrain difficulties. Be certain that all of the above suggestions are in check and that you are not shooting while breathing (causing vertical dispersion) Be sure that the rifle is tracking perfectly for at least 3/8 of an inch without interruption from the ground or shooter (which can cause both vertical and horizontal errors). Go over your mental check list before each shot. Focus intently on the target and let the trigger squeeze become a sympathetic movement. On a positive note; your table manners at the bench are pretty good. Most shooters shoot better from the bench than field positions. Bench groups provide a yardstick to match when shooting prone bi-pod or over your pack. When you can duplicate your rifle's bench accuracy from field positions, you know you are doing everything right! Problem: I get inconsistent chambering with my reloads. Some close easy, while others are kinda hard? Cure: Sizing your brass is the problem! While many folks like to neck size, I prefer to F/L size of all my brass and bump the shoulder back .001 of an inch. By doing so, we eliminate the occasional “snug” loaded round and have more consistency in our ammunition. I use a slug of barrel steel and chamber it for the parent cartridge. By inserting the sized case into this gauge I can accurately measure and adjust my sizing die to bump the shoulder back any amount desired. Note*** Be sure to check the OAL of your brass as well, oftentimes shooters neglect to trim their brass and the out of spec. OAL can cause the tight chambering. Problem: Accuracy falls off in my rifle after 20 rounds or so. I let the barrel cool between groups but that doesn't seem to help? Cure: Spare the rod and soil the barrel. Your barrel is obviously fouled and a good cleaning is in order. Most shooters do not clean their rifle properly or have determined the “FOUL OUT” point with their rifle. Shoot 5 shot groups letting the barrel cool between groups and when the group size is such that you are no longer happy with the accuracy, it is time to clean. This will vary from rifle to rifle. Powder, bearing surface of the bullet , barrel condition/quality all play a part. When accuracy degrades, be it 10 rounds or 35 rounds, this becomes your cleaning interval for that rifle. When it is time to clean, use plenty of elbow grease. We recommend 60-80 strokes of a good ammonia solvent ( Barnes CR-10) adding more solvent every 10 strokes. Every 60-80 rounds use Witches Brew Copper Remover to remove the stubborn copper and carbon in the barrel. If you have access to a bore scope, use it to determine if this cleaning regimen is proper for your barrel. Forget about wet patches, spermicide foaming cleaners and other gimmicks, scrubbing with good solvents and the use of a copper bronze brush is the best way to maintain accuracy. Problem: My “Testosterone Magnum” has quit shooting, the barrel is clean, but it refuses to shoot. I've only shot 6-700 rounds thru the gun. Cure: It may be time for a new tube? Most “Newbie's” think barrels last forever, well think again. That 338 Lapua you necked to 25 caliber will not last very long. When you are burning 80-110 grains of powder, throat erosion and heat checking are major concerns. Have the barrel bore-scoped to determine the throat condition. If it looks like a dry lake bed you're in trouble. When patching the bore, if you feel the patch snag and drag in the throat area, this too is an indicator of a worn barrel. Buck up and have it replaced, its the cost of entertainment and the price we all pay for our shooting pleasure.* Note a 308 Winchester is good for around 3500-4000 rounds before accuracy starts to drop off. A 257 STW around 600-700 rounds and its toast. Its not a bad idea to build a practice rifle in a milder caliber allowing longer life before re-barreling. A 6mm BR, Dasher, 7-08 or 308 are good rounds to choose when barrel life, mild recoil, and cost effective ammunition are a consideration. Remember; the shooting techniques are the same and practice does make perfect when that shot of a lifetime presents itself.

Until next time.....

Respectfully,

Darrell Holland

Long range shooters go thru great pains to properly set-up their rifles for long range shooting. Bipods, muzzle brakes, cosine indicators and a host of other widgets often adorn their newly created thunder stick. How many of them actually check to see that their scope reticle is perpendicular to the bore?

Often times they take for granted that the store clerk/gunsmith properly installed the scope and it is true to the rifle's bore? Others often cant the rifle and set the reticle to what “looks vertical” in their opinion? The resulting misalignment can cause problems when we engage targets at long range.

Over the years I've watched shooters adjust both elevation and windage in apparent dead calm conditions. When queried about the “extra windage” they dialed, the excuses ranged from rotational drift, to the Corliolis effect? Never once did they question the possibility that the reticle was not perpendicular to the bore.

Rotational drift at 500 yards is minimal (approx. 1.5 inches depending upon caliber and bullet) and is of no real concern to the long range hunter. Can you judge point of impact that accurately under field conditions? Probably not?

The Corliolis Effect comes into play if we are shooting at extreme range, 1000 yards plus and is more than not masked by winds between the shooter and his or her target. The earth rotates at approximately 750 miles per hour ( easterly direction), take your time of flight and divide it into 750 miles per hour.

On to bigger and more important things. It is an easy test to determine if your reticle is perpendicular to the bore and requires less ammunition than shooting the BOX. We should all be shooting a quality scope who's turrets are 90 degrees apart and have taken the time to do our best in optically zeroing the reticle ( when setting up the scope mounts) eliminating the dreaded erector tube windage/elevation movement when we make an adjustment with our target knobs. Having done so, we can now move to testing our rifle and scope. Precisely zero the rifle at 100 yds. Staple a fresh sheet of cardboard or butcher's paper to the target backer. Using a 4 foot contractors level scribe a plumb line on our paper with a “Sharpie felt pen”. Make this line 20-30 inches long and at the bottom of the line, scribe a horizontal line that will act as our aiming reference.

For those of you who are artistically inclined we've created an inverted capital “T”. From the bench, align the reticle's vertical wire with the plumb line on the paper and aim at the intersection of our lines. Fire a single round and note its location. Dial 15-20 MOA of “UP” elevation in our scope and aim at the same reference line. Be sure the reticle is aligned with our plumb line on the paper and fire a second round. If all is well, our bullet should be within a bullet diameter of striking our line, indicating our reticle is indeed perpendicular to the bore. We have now confirmed that our elevation knob is tracking true to the centerline of our bore. Any extreme elevation correction will now launch the bullet inline with our intended target given a dead calm condition.

If for some reason the shooting Gods have frowned upon you and the bullet strikes 1-2 inches “left or right” of the line, a scope rotation is in order. We must first note the location of our scope to the ring cap, take the Sharpie pen and make a “WITNESS” mark on the scope tube and ring. We next loosen the ring cap screws and “rotate” the scope in the direction of our bullet impact. A slight rotation is all that is necessary, be precise in our rotation, a 1/32 or 1/16 circumfrencial rotation will make a big difference in point of impact. Re-zero the rifle ( yes, this is an important step and must not be overlooked) and repeat the above exercise until the bullet strikes our vertical line.** Don't forget to paste the old bullet holes!

You've now successfully confirmed that your reticle is perpendicular to your rifles bore. Slip the windage/ elevation knobs and set them to “0". Grab the bino's, Data Card and start searching for a distant target to shoot. You'll be confident that reticle perpendicularity is no longer a concern when you need to stretch the barrel on your next long shot!

If we take the time to be confident in our equipment by periodic testing and evaluating. We will eliminate our “equipment related” shooting slumps and can isolate areas that require our focused attention. Position, sight alignment, breathing, trigger squeeze and follow thru are area's we can ALL improve upon. Rotate scope to the left Re-zero and shoot again. Rotate scope to the right Re-zero and shoot again. Perfection! Your reticle is now perpendicular to the bore.

All too often shooters blame errant shots on equipment, ammunition, imperfect zero's and a host of other excuses. Often times we find that by retracting our eye from the ocular lens we can see the reflection of who is indeed responsible for the missed shot? You will never make any real progress in your shooting if you do not take responsibility for your actions...

Thanks again for the opportunity to share my experiences regarding practical long range shooting.

Be safe and shoot straight!

Respectfully,

Darrell Holland

It's great living in a technological society. The shooting world has been blessed with its share of techno-gadgets in recent years. Wind meters, laser rangefinders and sophisticated ballistic programs have taken the guess work out of most of our honed and practiced skills.

Now the neophyte can accurately judge range to the nearest yard and determine wind deflection to the fraction of an inch given a constant blow. Such luxuries were not available to the likes of Daniel Boone, Billy Dixon or Davy Crocket. They had perfected these learned skills from years of practice and experience. Billy Dixon shot thousands of rounds in the extermination of the American bison, this experience made him one with his rifle. He was quite proficient in judging distance, wind and knew the ballistic profile of his handcrafted load. The buffalo hunters were indeed some of the finest game shots in American history due to the nearly inexhaustible number of targets available during that era. They shot in wind, rain, sleet, snow, scorching heat and a host of other “Postal Conditions” that would confound today's shooter's.

As a Generation of techno-shooters, many of us have become dependant on such gadgets. The laser rangefinder being the most used crutch in our shooting bag. How many of you still reach for the LRF when the target is within point blank range? We've developed a phobia that unless we know the exact range to the target we might miss? Hmmm.... Daniel Boone would not be impressed!

Most importantly, what do we do when our laser flat-lines due to snow, rain, fog and or poor reflectivity? During these moments of techno-failure our language would be embarrassing if used in mixed company.

I posed this question to hundreds of shooters at the Safari Club International show in Reno, Nevada this year and a very high percentage of shooters did not have a suitable answer. Many thought they could buy competence in “Testosterone” based magnums and zero their rifle at 300- 400 yds in an attempt to overcome such embarrassing situations.

One hunter who was headed to Mongolia for Marco Polo sheep was told to zero his 300 Win. Mag. at 500 yards as shots tended to L O N G on these wary trophies. If they encountered game between 200 and 325 yds. the bullet would be 14-15 inches high at those ranges! If a trophy sheep is spotted at 275 yards, will our hunter remember to hold 15 inches below his desired point of impact? Having watched numerous hunters in the field, I'd be willing to bet there would be no back straps on the campfire that night?

A Remington 300 Ultra Mag, shooting a 180 bullet at 3250 fps. with a 400 yd zero will be 8.52 inches high at 225 yards. Very few shooters realize just how high the bullet will be at ranges between 150-300 yds. Don't make this mistake, there is a better solution and you've been staring at it for years.

Reticle Salvation

That's right, when the laser fails and conditions are such that you cannot accurately judge distance to target, use the reticle in your scope. With a little practice you'll find it is easy to do and far more accurate than Mark 1 eyeball. Military and law enforcement shooters have used the scopes reticle for decades to accurately determine range to a target of a given size. Hunters can also use the same technology to bring home the trophy under inclement conditions.

Most American and a few European scopes have the reticle installed in the Second Focal Plane, meaning the reticle remains a constant size and the image ( deer, elk, prairie dog ) increases or decreases as we turn the magnification up or down. Second Focal Plane scopes are usually calibrated on their highest magnification setting. It is important to note your calibrated setting.

In First Focal Plane scopes, the reticle and target size increase or decrease proportionally with magnification changes allowing the shooter to range and shoot on ANY magnification setting. First focal plane technology is primarily a European scope feature, however a few of the American scope companies are noting the importance of being able to range and shoot on any magnification. Savvy shooters are welcoming the change. Lets take a look at how the average shooter can use his “Duplex” reticle to range a target.

As an example; lets range an 18" mule deer. Take your target backer and set it at 100 yds. Using a felt marker, draw a 6" tall letter “I” on the target backer. From a solid rest, turn the power selector ring on your scope so the heavy post of the “duplex” and the horizontal crosswire bracket the “I” from top to bottom. Note the “magnification setting” on your scope that allows you to subtend 6 inches at 100 yds. We have now converted an angular unit of measure “Inch of Angle” to something that we can use.

On this magnification setting we can now determine the range to our target. We know that our “Duplex” subtends 6 inches at 100 yards and because we are working with an “Angular Unit of Measure”, the subtension at 200 yds. is 12 inches, at 300 yds. 18 inches and at 400 yds. 24 inches. Our mule deer measures 18 inches from the top of the back to the brisket, if we bracket our deer using the duplex we can be pretty certain that he is very close to 300 yards away and hold accordingly for the shot.

Our deer is properly bracketed using the duplex reticle with a subtension of 18 inches at 300 yards.

Amore sophisticated and accurate method of range finding involves the use of Mil-radian and Minute of Angle units of measure. These again are Angular Units of Measure like “Inches of Angle” that start from the shooter and go to infinity. The Mil-radian scale has been used by the military for over a century to call artillery. A circle is divided into 6400 equal parts, one milradian is 1/6400 of a circle. In laymen terms this equates to 3.6 inches per 100 yards, 7.2 inches at 200 yards and 36 inches at 1000 yards. Using the “Minute of Angle” scale, a circle is divided into 21,600 equal parts. A circle contains 360 degrees and each degree contains 60 minutes of angle. A minute of angle is a finer angular unit of measure than a mil-radian and is the most popular method of angular correction when shooting long range. One minute of angle will subtend 1.047 inches per 100 yards, 2.094 inches at 200 yards and 10.47 inches at 1000 yards.

Since we know the angular subtension at a given distance, we need to know the target size we are trying to range. It becomes a simple mathematical formula to determine the range once we know the target size we are shooting at. The use of the mil-radian scale has prompted a nifty tool called the Mil-dot Master that allows the shooter to accurately gauge the distance to the target by the use of a modified slide rule. The formula for using the Mil scale is as follows: Target size; width/height in inches multiplied by 27.78, divided by the number of mils the target subtends. Example: 18 inch mule deer. 18 x 27.78 = 500.04 divided by the number of mils our target subtends ( in this example 1.5 mils) 500.04 divided by 1.5 = 333.36 yards.

New data card software can also plot the mil scale subtension allowing the shooter to have a handy pocket card with this valuable information.

Using the MOA scale we can also determine the distance to the target. Suppose we ‘ve lost our mil-data cards and or our calculator vapor locked. Simply divide the number of “Minutes” the target subtends into the target size to determine range to the target. Example: 18 inch mule deer, bracketing our buck from the top of the back to the brisket he measures 6 MOA. Divide 18 by 6 and we get 3, our deer is 300 yards away. If he brackets 4.5 minutes of angle, 18 divided by 4.5 equals 4, he is 400 yards away. In this case we are actually using the “ Inch of Angle “ scale and not worrying about the extra .047 of an inch in True Minute of Angle. The extra .047 amounts to a 4.6% difference in range ( at 400 yards this amounts to 18 yards) one can easily round the 4.6% to 5 % and add this to our range if so desired. This system is fast, accurate and we can do the math in our head.

This is a basic lesson in using the reticle to determine range to the target should your laser range finder fail in the field. Often times Mother Nature intervenes on the side of the animals and renders our laser technology useless. If we are versatile and adaptable in our shooting we can remain at the top of the food chain. Successful hunters always have a back-up plan. Do you?

Advanced Reticle Technology offers both of these range finding systems in their unique reticle design. Most importantly they offer precise aiming points in Minutes of Angle eliminating the need to dial elevation when shooting long range. This reticle design is currently available in Leupold and Schmidt & Bender rifle scopes. In the next few months we will also have this reticle in the NEW Nightforce 5.5x22 series of rifle scopes with first focal plane technology.

For more information on long range rifle scopes contact

Holland's at 406-348-2051 or see our web page at: www.hollandguns.com

Be sure and ask for your FREE ballistic profile and DVD. The first 50 callers will receive our Mil- Value Index Card showing mil-values from .5 mils to 5.0 mils in 1/8th mil graduations for 8 different target sizes.

This is a must have card for anyone ranging in Mils.

FIGURE 1                                           FIGURE 2

STEP #1

Begin by attaching the bases to the receiver, do not use Loctite at this point. We are simply checking the receiver bridge heights to ensure perfect alignment. With bases attached, set a straight edge on top and see that they are in the same plane. If they are, proceed to Step # 2. SEE FIGURE 1

If not, we want to surface the bases for our individual receiver. This allows for stress free mounting of our scope. The bases are machined at a 20 MOA* slope as received. Set your sine bar, or our Special Receiver Fixture with the proper shim*. 10 MOA = .014 20 MOA =.029* 25 MOA = .036 and 30 MOA = .043. Take a .005 cut from the rear base and machine the front base with this setting. This should bring both bases into PERFECT alignment (plane) with one another. SEE FIGURE 2

STEP #2

Attach the Picatinny rail to the bases with the screws provided, you will use one 10-32 flat head cap screw and the 10-32 button head screw. Attach your rings to the rail and space the rings to the widest width for your particular scope. * Note: keep the rings at least 1/8 inch from the eye piece, objective bell and or turret head. Using a power lap or hand lap, lap the ring halves with valve lapping compound. Wash and clean the ring halves and attach them to the rail. SEE FIGURE 3 Level the rifle and base in the vise and hang a plumb bob from the ceiling across the room. Set the scope in the ring halves and snug the ring caps after aligning the reticle to the string line. Insert your collimator into the bore and align with the scope reticle. Remove the windage/elevation caps. Turn the windage dial (left or right) until the reticle stops moving in the collimator. Count the number of clicks or MOA as we turn the windage knob in the opposite direction. Take the number of clicks or MOA and divide by 2. Example: We had 40 minutes of angle from left to right. Turn the windage knob back 20 MOA or 80 clicks ( if the scope is calibrated in .250 MOA click values). This centers the windage adjustment in the erector tube. Do the same with the elevation adjustment. The reticle is now centered in the erector tube.

STEP #3

With the reticle centered in our scope, remove the scope from the rail. Snug the 10-32 pivot screw on the rear base as well as the 10-32 button head screw on the front base. Attach the scope and look at the collimator/reticle alignment. Shift or tap the base left or right to align with the collimator for windage. Tighten the button head screw.

FIGURE 3                          FIGURE 4

Using the transfer punch supplied with the scope mount, lightly center punch the location of the front locking screw in the front base. SEE FIGURE 4 Remove the front base from the receiver and place in the mill vise. Locate the center punch mark and center drill, complete drilling with a #22 drill and tap with a 10-32 tap. SEE FIGURE 5 Clean bases and refinish if necessary. Clean 6-48 tapped holes in the receiver with Acetone. Clean 6-48 base screws (4). Use a BLUE or PURPLE grade of Loctite, never Red and apply a small drop to each of the base screws. Attach the bases to the receiver and tighten the 6-48 screws. The rear 10-32 pivot screw and 10-32 button head screw are the correct length. The locking screw is longer and may require shortening if it contacts the barrel upon tightening. With all the screws confirmed to be the correct length, clean with Acetone and apply a drop of Loctite to each screw. Install Picatinny rail on bases and tighten screws with 1/8" Allen wrench provided. Install scope and rings, be sure to push the recoil lug on the rings to the forward abutment on the rail and tighten the ring nuts to 50-60 INCH pounds. You are now ready to head to the range and zero the rifle

FIGURE 5

Another method used by some gunsmiths is to attach bases following Step # 1. Mount the rail tight to the bases and zero the rifle (100-200 yds. your choice) at the range. Return to the shop and insert the collimator noting the reticles location to the collimator. Remove the scope and center the reticle for both windage and elevation. Mount the scope and note the location relative to the ZERO'ed setting on the collimator. Machine the base for elevation if needed and adjust the base left or right for windage. Transfer punch the locking screw hole, drill and tap for 10-32 locking screw and reassemble. Attention Gunsmiths: Buy 10 Perfect Picatinny Rail Mounts and receive our custom machining sine bar for Remington 700 short and long action receivers FREE ( A $200.00 value). Makes installing a snap and provides your customer with an absolutely PERFECT job each and every time. Perfect for all scopes, but especially nice for European scopes with limited adjustments.

Shims for sine bar. Allows gunsmiths to machine forward taper into the mount. 

For more information and or Technical support call Holland's at 406-348-2051 / 24 Hr.  Check out our website for rifle building supplies, parts, stocks, scopes, recoil pads, we are Remington 700 specialists www.hollandguns.com

With Holland's Perfect Picatinny Rail Mount you'll never again fight scope mounting problems!

We are the solution to all your scope mounting needs.

Our high tech society has evolved in many ways and hunters have had their share of advancements. High protein food plots for maximum horn production, sophisticated camouflage, alluring scent products, and last but not least, great leaps in rifles, cartridges and scopes for the long range hunter.

Protein sources, scents and camouflage are no brainers, they contain no ethical or responsibility clauses in their use. Rifles and the apparent license in their use should come with a disclaimer or better yet, a booklet on long range ballistics.

As a custom gunsmith and long range shooting instructor I hear stories from scores of hunters shooting at big game animals at EXTREME ranges under horrific conditions and scoring one shot kills. There are numerous companies promoting extreme range hunting and intrepid hunters are eager to join the fraternity and receive their Merit Badge. While there are a few extremely capable individuals promoting such shooting/hunting ethics, we must keep in mind the ability and knowledge of the hunters we are enticing.

Having run a long range shooting school for a number of years, we see a pretty good cross section of hunters come and go. Many with years of shooting and hunting experience but lacking in the understanding of applied ballistics and hazardous environmental conditions that they face when going afield. Its fun and exciting to “ring steel” at 600-1000 on a windless day at 70° from prone or bench rest conditions and another to do so at 20° in 12 inches of snow with a 3-5 mph breeze blowing left to right and shooting over your pack.

Over the years we've had some great shots attend our schools, military snipers, police marksmen, competitive shooters and some damn good country boys who grew up with a rifle in their hands. Our range facilities allow us to shoot under real world conditions. Shooters tackle switching winds as well as angular conditions complimented by irregular and broken ground. These are tough conditions to shoot in and make consistent hits at 500-600-700 yards, not to mention doing so at 875-900 and 1000 yds.

Many folks have not a clue as to what the bullet is doing at 875 yds v/s 900 yds. At 900 yds a mere 2 mph change in the wind between you and the target can change bullet impact 10 inches. How many of these genetic links to Carlos Hathcock understand the effects of barometric pressure, temperature, elevation and humidity on their bullets flight? I can assure you not many! Is it ethical then to be shooting beyond our knowledge base? Does the cost of the hunt, or the last day of the hunt give you license to shoot beyond your capabilities? If you muttered a feeble “YES” to the above questions you'd better sharpen your pencil and take good notes.

In an attempt to educate those hunters who walk the razors edge, lets go hunting and explore the pitfalls in an average mule deer hunt at long range.

Our test hunter is shooting a 300 Winchester Magnum with a 180 grain Nosler Accu-bond at 3000 fps. chronographed at 70 degrees. He is using 72.5 grains of R/L #22 with a Remington 9 1/2M primer. He zero's the rifle at 200 yds and using Sierra's Infinity 5.1 ballistics program plots the trajectory of his rifle to 1000 yds for his Colorado hunt. Confident that he has done everything right he double checks the numbers; B/P 29.0, altitude 4500', temperature 20 degrees, humidity 20%. Yep, she looks good as he tapes the data sheet to the rifles stock. He'll be hunting the wind swept prairies of eastern Colorado.

It snowed 12 inches the week before and a warming spell created a crust on the snow making walking difficult and noisy. An hour from camp our hunter spies a great buck in the distance, our hunter crouches low in the sage and walks to the side of a small hill gaining a slight elevation advantage and better shooting position for the shot. It's 17 ° outside as he struggles with numb hands to free his range finder from his coat pocket. Shivering from the cold and the excitement of seeing a world class buck, he zaps the laser rangefinder and it fails.

His warm breath condenses on the eye piece and freezes, twice more it flat-lines and finally on the fourth attempt he gets a reading. The bold red numbers read 775 YARDS, he's confident he can make the shot, he's seen it done on TV many times. He recalls the success stories of fellow hunters at the gun club who have taken game at greater distances. He checks his data chart and dials the correction. At 775 yards the bullet will drop 123 inches, the hill is protecting the hunter from the 3-5 mph breeze that is blowing, the 12 inches of snow has covered the bunch grass and the stiff sage brush offers no indication as to wind velocity or direction. Focusing on the deer, our hunter does his best to provide the perfect trigger squeeze under the frigid temperatures.

Lets examine a few of the environmental hazards involved in the above shot.

1) Never rely on a single reading from the laser rangefinder when it has flat-lined several times before. We MUST get consistent readings to confirm an Accurate range to the target. The error factor is too great to risk the shot of a lifetime. A mere 25 yard change in the distance to the deer can result in an 11 inch point of impact change.

2) Our shooter has loaded his ammunition with R/L #22, not the best powder choice when it comes to temperature sensitivity. With a 53 degree change in temperature from his chronograph testing at 70° he may well experience a 100 fps loss in velocity or MORE. With a 100 fps loss in velocity the bullet will drop an additional 9.75 inches.

3) The unnoticed left to right breeze of just 3-5 mph will cause a 14-15 inch deflection in our bullets flight. Keep in mind it is very difficult to accurately gauge the wind beyond the shooter especially over broken/irregular ground with hills and timber. A full value 10 mph wind will deflect the bullet 38.44 inches under the above conditions.

4) Add in a little flinch, imperfect trigger squeeze, or the rifle shifts under recoil from the less than perfect shooting position over the pack and who knows where the bullet may strike?

The chances of our hunter connecting with the buck are pretty slim in my opinion. Wouldn't you agree? Let's stretch the barrel a bit more and make the mythical 1000 yard shot under the same conditions.

At 3000 fps bullet drop is 249.84 inches, at 2900 fps ( remember the 100 fps loss from our temperature change) drop is 269.87 inches, a 20 inch difference! Wind drift in a full value 3-5 mph wind is 26-27 inches, provided we have a consistent wind ALL THE WAY TO THE TARGET. Miss the target distance by 25 yards, add 18 plus inches to the drop.

These are point of impact changes with just a 100 fps change in velocity and a 3-5 mph breeze. Experience a 11/2 point change in barometric pressure and drop at a 1000 yds. increases to 279 inches. Hmmm, are we starting to see the severity of changing and unpredictable conditions at long range? Cogitate on a 600 yd. uphill 20 degree shot, with a 7:30-1:30 quartering wind at 10 mph. Does bullet lift come to mind? If so, how much?

Ask competitive long range shooters how often they hit the X-ring with the first shot in competition? Not very often, should be the reply! Keep in mind they are shooting at an EXACT 600-800 and1000 yds with wind flags from a very stable position with very little adrenaline/excitement flowing in their veins.

To reasonable shooting distances, at ranges up to 600 yards, a temperature/muzzle velocity change is the most important factor to be considered. Slight changes in elevation, humidity, and barometric pressure have very little effect on the bullets flight to 600 yds with magnum velocities. With consistent and determined practice one can become quite proficient on game animals to 600 yds. Beyond that, it takes tremendous skill and experience combined with a little luck to make consistent hits at 800-900 and 1000 yds.

If you doubt this, take 12 inch squares of cardboard and attach them to a wooden stake, have your hunting partner place them at different yardages (600-1000yds) and different angles to the shooter. Range and calculate the MOA correction for drop and drift and fire away. It should be a humbling experience? This 12x12 inch square represents the kill zone of a deer or antelope.

This simple test will allow you to assess your proficiency and determine your range limitation. Set aside your ego and be honest with your capabilities, if you can consistently keep ALL of your shots in the 12x12 inch square at 600 yds, but hit 2 out of 5 at 700 yards, your range limitation under ideal conditions should be 600 yds. On the other hand, if 450 yards is the extreme range at which you can keep all your shots on the target, stand tall, you are ahead of 95 percent of the shooters out there given the same test. As true sportsmen we need a moral compass to guide us in our long range shooting pursuits, this test can help us obtain that virtue.

Chronograph your ammunition at different temperatures. 100 degrees for summer antelope, 70 degrees for normal conditions and put several cartridges in the freezer overnight and keep them on ice with a thermometer at 20-30 degrees. Note and record the muzzle velocities with these temperature changes. Create data cards for each muzzle velocity.

The best powders for extreme temperature changes are the Hogdon series of EXTREME powders. They include the following H-4895 Varget H-4350 H-4831 H-1000 Retumbo- Benchmark and H50BMG. These powders will provide the most consistent velocities in a wide range of temperatures. It is the responsibility of the serious hunter/shooter to check his or her ammunition for velocity changes when gunning at long range.

Above all practice!!! One can never get enough practice, do so under realistic outdoor conditions and be honest with your evaluation. Competence comes with perfect practice, no one packages or bottles it! Keep good records of your shooting, note temperature, wind, barometric pressure, humidity and the MOA correction needed to make a center hit under the above conditions. You will see some interesting comparisons when reviewing these notes.

Don't be a fair weather shooter! We see a majority of shooters who, when the wind is up, or it is raining, simply punch the alarm, roll over and catch a few more ZZZ's. Hmmm, they are missing a golden opportunity to see the effects of rain, temperature, humidity and B/P on their shot. Do we stay in the tent when it is raining or snowing? When the weather conspires against you, don your foul weather gear and get some experience, it can make the difference between success and failure in the future.

Wounding an animal is a heavy burden to carry and rightfully so. Know your limitations and never allow someone to push you beyond your comfort zone... Surgical one shot kills are what we are after. The “just get a bullet in em” should be removed from our vocabulary! If in doubt, stalk and get closer, there is no shame in a 450 yard shot.

Only 463 yards in an 8 to 10 mph wind, but a great buck with memories that will last a lifetime. Rifle 308 Winchester, 150 grain Ballistic Tip at 2900 fps did the job.

Until next time, shoot straight and be safe in the great outdoors.

Respectfully

Darrell Holland

Campfire stories abound during hunting season regarding hold-over, wind drift and elevation changes affecting the bullets flight. Very few Ballistician's attend these informal chat sessions and most of the information shared is flawed. Most hunters are of the “fire for effect” club and rarely take the time to educated themselves on ballistic information.

Classes are not offered at the local community college, gun clubs seldom host individuals qualified to talk on the subject. What is the hunter who is thirsty for knowledge to do?

The simple solution is to purchase a ballistic program for your PC. They are simple to use and can provide the hunter/shooter with a wealth of accurate information based on Scientific Fact rather than bar stool experience. The student will have a better understanding of gravity, wind deflection, elevation changes, point blank zero's, MOA correction, time of flight and more!

Most importantly it can be done in the privacy of his home without tuition fee's and surprise exams. Problems solved and myths debunked are just a few key strokes away. For less than a $100.00 he can have a personal tutor and create his or her own data cards to perfection.

The buck that “Big Al” killed last year at 600 yds with a top of the back hold and a 100 yard zero is now classified as BS. The wind drift at 400 yards in a 15 mph wind can be calculated exactly and the hold-off compensated for precisely. With the simple addition of a couple of programs he has taken the guess work out of his shooting and can be looked upon by his peers as an encyclopedia of ballistic knowledge. No matter how you look at it, it's a win win situation! Knowledge does have it's benefits...

Sierra Infinity 5.1 and 6.0 are some of the best and easiest to use ballistic programs on the market. Installation is a snap, and with 30 minutes of practice you are navigating smoothly thru the program. Range, velocity, energy foot pounds, drop, drift, time of flight are all at your finger tips. What's the best range to zero your rifle at? Simple enough, adjust the zero and see. What effect will a 10,000 foot change in elevation have on my Colorado hunt? Punch in the numbers and you'll know exactly.

Another great program that is compatible with Sierra Infinity, is Holland's Ultimate Data Card Software. This software program works with both versions 5.1 and 6.0 and allows the user to create

The Ultimate Data Card. I'm a hard copy kinda guy, data cards don't require batteries, they are quicker than PDA's and easier to carry. This data card provides the following information to the shooter.

Starting with the far left column, we have Mil-radian subtension, great info. when the laser rangefinder fails and we must use the scopes reticle to determine range to the target, they are graduated to the nearest 1/100th mil. The next column is actual range in yards, followed by Drop in MOA and Drift in MOA. Now for the exciting part. The next four columns are uphill/downhill angles ( your choice of any 4 angles) auto-calculated based on time of flight and gravity of YOUR specific round. These corrections are based in corrected MOA. That's right, no mental gymnastics, read and shoot to the numbers, it's that easy! All card formats are for ANY zero you desire and are in 25 yard increments from 25-1000 yards. You can print the card in 3 different sizes according to your needs and vision requirements. No other data card software provides you with the versatility and accuracy of our system. The shooter has all the information he or she needs at their fingertips in one handy laminated card.

With hunting season just around the corner, take the time to educate yourself and be a more knowledgeable hunter this fall. Gain the respect of your peers as you out shoot them on windy days at distant targets. You'll never regret your investment in ballistic knowledge...

Until next time....

Respectfully,

Darrell Holland